Ultimate Yellowstone National Park guide for first timers

Yellowstone National Park is world-renowned for its geothermal activity, wildlife and incredible landscapes. Canyons, waterfalls, geysers, lakes, sparkling rivers, you name it and Yellowstone has it. Millions of people visit Yellowstone each year from all over the world. Major tourist attraction? Yes? For good reason? Also yes.

My trip down to Yellowstone was rather quick, spending 2 full days in the park. I certainly am not an expert but definitely have a few things to share to make your first time a memorable one. And to avoid the mistakes Chris and I made, which truth be told, was down to our lack of planning.

In this blog post, I’m sharing the major must-sees in Yellowstone National Park and a bit of my own research for when I go back!

A few things you might not know about Yellowstone National Park

I can’t say I am too much of a history buff when it comes to visiting new places. Chris is the one who has museums on his list to do and reads all the info signs. However, Yellowstone National Park piqued my interest to learn more about it. I feel it’s a bit special!

The park was signed into law on March 1st, 1872, by President Ulysses S. Grant. This was to protect over 2 million acres of wilderness and was the first national park in the world. This was the start of protecting the wilderness of national parks all over the globe.

Freaky yet very cool, within the park, is the Yellowstone Caldera. A supervolcano 80 kilometers long and 65 kilometers wide. It’s hundreds of meters deep and although the likelihood of this volcano ever erupting is more than extremely low, it is the reason why Yellowstone National Park preserves more than half of the world’s hydrothermal features such as geysers, hot springs, travertine terraces and mudpots.

Yellowstone National Park has the highest concentration of mammals in the lower 48. There are nearly 300 species of birds, 16 species of fish, 6 species of reptiles, 67 species of mammals, 7 species of ungulates and 2 species of bears. More on wildlife to come but it’s no wonder Yellowstone is said to be the place for wildlife viewing and photography.

Yellowstone National Park is huge! So much bigger than we expected. Most of the park covers the northwest area of Wyoming but extends a little bit into Montana and Idaho. It makes up almost 2.3 million acres which is larger than Rhode Island and Delaware combined!

Now, let’s plan your trip!

Guide to Yellowstone National Park

How to get there

There are 5 different entrances to Yellowstone. The most popular are the west and south entrances but depending on where you are coming from will determine which entrance to go through.

Because Chris and I drove from Manitoba, and because the two north entrances were closed from flooding and slips, we drove into the east entrance. Our route was Manitoba>> Billings>> Yellowstone National Park. Massive days of driving but you could split it up way more.

Be sure to keep up to date with the National Park Service to know which entrances are open and closed.

Where to stay

I highly suggest staying in the park at one of the many campgrounds or accommodation options. Chris and I made the mistake of staying in Cody for the first night. It was only an hour from the east entrance but what we didn’t realize was it was still about another hour from the east entrance until we were on the Grand Loop road in the park to see the attractions.

In short, it was WAY too much driving, it did put a bit of a damper on the trip. If we had the right equipment, we would have camped but spending the extra money to stay in the park would have been so much better.

Hotels & Lodges

There are a few hotels and lodges in the park including:

• Old Faithful Inn
• Canyon Lodge & Cabins
• Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel & Cabins
• Lake Yellowstone Hotel & Cabins

There are also accommodation options outside of the park. West Yellowstone has a few to choose from and being just outside the park gates, accommodation is closer to attractions than the east entrance. They do book up quickly in the summertime though. Wapiti and Cody are the closest towns on the east entrance, 30 minutes and 1 hour respectively. However like I mentioned before I wouldn’t recommend staying on that side if you’re going back into the park the next day.

Cooke City, Silver Gate and Gardiner would be the closest towns to the northeast and north entrances respectively. The towns are not far from the park entrances. Gardiner is close to Mammoth Springs, about a 30-minute drive. Staying in Cooke City or Silver Gate would be best if you’re keen to catch some wildlife as the road once you’re in the park goes through Lamar Valley which is wildlife central.

Again, check the National Park Services to keep and eye on entrance openings. It’s also important to note that not all entrances are open year-round.

Campgrounds

There are 12 campgrounds in the park. Some can be reserved through Yellowstone National Park Lodges and others reserved through Recreation.gov. Some are also first come first serve and others do require a certain setup because of wildlife. ie, some campgrounds you cannot tent in.

When to go

Yellowstone is open year-round but because of snow, much of the park is not accessible by vehicle. The most popular time is June to August with crowds tapering off in September and October. Come mid to late October, many campgrounds and accommodations close as they get ready for winter.

The best time for wildlife is usually May when the snow is cleared. Bears are coming out of hibernation and animals are looking for those new shoots of grass. The crowds are also not as busy and the air is cooler.

Staying safe

Along with its beauty, Yellowstone does hold a level of danger within the park. Volatile ground and big game animals, here are a few things to not just keep in mind but 100% abide by while exploring the park.

• It’s really important to remember that even in the excitement of capturing an amazing image safety for yourself, landscapes and wildlife must come first. There are often bison traffic jams in Yellowstone. The animals have the right away, give them space, and don’t hold up traffic. Use the pullouts to stop. If there aren’t any just keep driving and don’t worry you will see more bison!

• Bear and wildlife safety– It’s not uncommon to cross paths with bison or elk throughout the park including on the boardwalks so be sure to keep your distance from them. You’re more likely to see bears out hiking in the wilderness. The park suggests 3 or more people in a group, you’ll need to carry bear spray (know how to use it) and follow bear safety practices. Although bears shouldn’t be feared you do need to educate yourself before stepping into their home.
• When exploring the park, always stay on the path. The ground is quite volatile with springs and geothermal activity everywhere. The springs are very hot and in some spots, the ground may look stable but wouldn’t take much to fall through.

What to see and do in Yellowstone

The route in which you choose to travel around Yellowstone much depends on where you’ve come from and your time frame. There is a Grand Loop Road which essentially makes a figure eight in the park going by all the main must-sees in Yellowstone.

This is the route that Chris and I took. We were mostly on the lookout for wildlife. I’ve highlighted each attraction below though so you get an idea of what to expect no matter what route you take.

Day 1– East entrance- Yellowstone Lake- Old Faithful & Upper Geyser Basin- Biscuit Basin- Grand Prismatic- Gibbon Falls- Norris Geyser Basin, Grand Canyon- Hayden Valley- back out the east entrance.
* We missed out on the West Thumb Geyser as it was closed to get in

Day 2– East entrance- Hayden Valley-Lamar Valley (most of it was shut)- Tower Fall- Mammoth Springs- out West Entrance

Old Faithful & Upper Geyser Basin

The Upper Geyser Basin and Old Faithful are located in the heart of Yellowstone and are the most popular attractions in the park. The area is massive and can cater to a lot of visitors. There is a large network of paths and boardwalks among the highest concentration of geysers in the world. We spent our time walking around Geyser Hill seeing the Beehive Geyser, the Castle Geyser and many others.

Old Faithful was named after its predictability of eruptions. There is a board and information about it’s the next eruptions at the visitor centers so you can plan your day around seeing it erupt.

Biscuit Basin

Biscuit Basin is in the north part of the Upper Geyser Basin. There’s a short boardwalk to walk on taking you around the Sapphire Pool, Mustard Spring, Avoca Spring, Shell and Jewel Geyser.

Grand Prismatic

The Grand Prismatic Spring is the largest spring in Yellowstone and the third largest in the world. You can see its rich bright colours at the Midway Geyser. The hues of yellow and orange come from thermophile (heat-loving) bacteria living in the progressively cooler water around the spring. The heat-loving microbes in the spring have led to many scientific and medical advancements including the entire human genome sequencing.

Gibbon Falls

Easy to see and easy to get to, Gibbon Falls is located right off the main Grand Loop road. The falls have a 25-meter drop and are easily viewed from a paved path on the roadside.

Norris Geyser Basin

The Norris Geyser Basin is unique in that it is the hottest and oldest thermal area in Yellowstone. It has the tallest geyser in the world, the Steamboat Geyser and can erupt up to 120 meters high. It’s not very predictable so you can’t plan for it, you might just get lucky.

There are two parts to the Norris Geyser Basin. One is the Porcelain and the other the Back Basin. Both have boardwalks around. We walked The Porcelain Basin which was about 1.2km. The back Basin is about 2.4km. If you’re short on time or had to pick one, I’d go with the Porcelain Basin.

Grand Canyon of Yellowstone

Apparently, it’s not just Arizona that has a grand canyon! Yellowstone does too and I have to say it was pretty impressive. The walls of the canyon are colourful and vibrant and the lower falls drop powerfully into the canyon. Just like the Grand Canyon, there is a north and south rim. You can drive on both with multiple viewpoints. The view from Artist Point at the end of the South Rim Drive is one of the best.

There is a trail called Uncle Tom’s trail that wasn’t open when we were there likely from weather damage. This trail looks to give amazing views deeper down into the canyon. You could spend hours on both the north and south rim viewing, photographing and hiking the trails from view point to view point.

Mammoth Springs

Mammoth Springs is home to amazing travertine terraces. I read somewhere they look like inside-out caves which are totally true. Their formation is complex but so unique and pleasing to the eye. There are many terraces at Mammoth Springs with the Upper and Lower boardwalks to follow around. There are also a few car parks at different points so you have a few options as to where you want to walk.

There is a bit of a ‘town’ at Mammoth Springs as well. Accommodation for visitors but also for staff. The time of year depends on what amenities are open but there is a small gift shop and store. It’s also common to see elk grazing near the village and up above the terraces.

Hayden Valley

Hayden valley was a great spot for bison viewing. We went through in the early morning and late evening and saw large herds of bison. In the distance, we saw elk as well. The river along Hayden Valley is also a great place for bird spotting as the river runs through.

During peak time there are generally a lot of people out looking for the same thing- wildlife. So if you stop just make sure you stop in a pull-out, not off to the side of the road. Also, respect the wildlife. Bison seem docile but they are strong and powerful so do not get too close!

Lamar Valley

Lamar Valley is the place to go if you’re looking to see wildlife. It’s often called the American Serengeti. You’re guaranteed to see something whether it’s bison, pronghorn, black bears or the famous wolf packs. The best time to drive up the valley (or down) is early in the morning or around sunset. Animals are always more active at these times.

The landscape of the valley is also very beautiful and a sight in itself. It feels a bit like you’re in the grasslands but with a mountain backdrop. It’s very impressive! Unfortunately, most of the valley was closed when we visited due to previous weather events. We went as far as we could and down a gravel road called ‘Slough Creek Campground road’ which I suggest going down. We saw a lot of Bison but you never know what else might be around!

Tips for Photographing Yellowstone

As I mentioned before the wildlife in Yellowstone National Park is extraordinary. So many species within the wilderness of the park. The landscape is different everywhere you go in the park and the geysers, springs and terraces are bright and vibrant. There is absolutely no shortage of things to photograph in Yellowstone. After a few days there, here are a few tips for photographing the park.

• Bring a wide-angle lens. I borrowed one from my dad and it was great to capture the landscape, especially the geysers. The boardwalks get quite close to them so a wide angle will help you capture more even being up close. It’s also a good way to capture scale.
• A telephoto lens/zoom lens is a must for wildlife photography. Park regulations state you must stay 23 meters away from bison, elk and other wildife, 91 meters for bears and wolves. During a rut, you’ll want even more distance from Bison and Elk. A lens up to 200 or 300 mm would work great for bison, elk and sheep. I had a 500 mm which was too close in some instances but would have been great for bears or wolves if we saw any. I would say a lens with a varied focal length like a 100-400, 70-300 would be ideal. That way you’re not switching lenses all the time for different wildlife.
• Be out there for dawn and dusk. These are the times animals are most active. Head up Lamar Valley for your best chance at a variety of wildlife.
• Try different angles and compositions for your photos. Zoom in and out with wildlife so you can capture portrait shots of the animals, images of animals in a group and with the landscape. Use your zoom with landscapes and geysers to show detail or scale.
• Be ready! Have your camera out with you and set up. You just never know what will pop out of the bush and you wouldn’t want to miss it trying to dig your camera out.

Few things to expect

On our first and only trip to Yellowstone, Chris and I went in quite blind. I didn’t do too much research and although we had a great trip and saw a lot, here are a few things I’ve learned to expect visiting Yellowstone National Park.

• The park is huge! Stay over in the park if you can. If not, outside of park at the west and north entrances are the best places to stay as they are closest to the park. For wildlife enthusiasts, I think the North east entrance (Silver Gate or Cooke City) is the best option so you’re close to Lamar Valley.
• Don’t set your wildlife expectations too high. Wildlife is so unpredictable and I made the mistake of setting my sights too high because, well, it’s Yellowstone! I would say though, you are guaranteed to see buffalo.
• Be prepared to do a lot of walking. On the flip side of that, we did not walk every boardwalk and see every geyser but still feel fulfilled by what we saw.
• Don’t let FOMO set in in terms of not seeing everything. The park rangers give out awesome maps at the entrance but there are A LOT of geysers on it. It would be very difficult and exhausting to visit every single geyser in one visit and in all honestly some of them do start looking a bit the same. The spots outlined above are the main ones and the most unique in the park.
• There are general stores/gift shops at each of the villages. I think the store at Fishing bridge is the biggest and the best. If you see something there you like, buy it! They have a lot of beautiful and unique souvenirs there and reasonably priced as well. I was very impressed!
• I think a good amount of time, if you weren’t hiking, would be 3 days /2 nights. If you wanted to do a few trails, photography and spend extra time searching for wildlife, 4 days/3 nights would suffice.