The Paparoa Great Walkvis New Zealand’s 10th Great Walk — and it’s rightly earned its place as a must-do hike in Aotearoa. Winding through the heart of the Paparoa Ranges, this trail serves up raw, untamed beauty and a true taste of West Coast wilderness.
Expect dramatic escarpments, lush rainforest, kiwi calls at night, and long stretches of remote, soul-stirring scenery. Whether you’re hiking or biking, you’ll enter an adventure that’s both powerful and peaceful and one that stays with you long after your journey ends.
This track is a memorial to the 29 men who lost their lives in the Pike River Mine tragedy. It holds deep emotional significance and is a beautiful way to pay tribute to them and their families. As part of this tribute, another route was constructed to the Pike River Mine site, named Pike29 Memorial track. It is a long side trip from the Paparoa track but can be accessed from the road. Read more about the Pike29 Memorial track here.
I hope I’ve convinced you so far to give the Paparoa a go! This blog post will help you plan and learn what to expect on this amazing Great Walk.
Huts on the Paparoa:
It is important to note that all huts on the Paparoa Great Walk have:
- Fireplace
- Long drop toilets supplied with toilet paper
- Sink with cold running water in the hut
- Gas cooking facilities,
- Mattresses on the bunks
There are no showers and you need to bring your own cooking equipment and utensils. I also suggest bringing a cooker, as well as toilet paper, just in case.
Starting logistics
The Paparoa Track is a point to point with start/end points near Blackball and Punakaiki. This means you will need either a car relocation, 2 cars within your party, key swap or a shuttle. It’s not overly complicated or expensive to arrange and there are a few shuttle and car relocation services with a number of options:
Which way to hike?
You can start at either end. The huts are spaced out evenly so the walk will still be evenly spaced in terms of walking distance.
I suggest starting at the Smoke-Ho carpark near Blackball, finishing in Punakaiki. The climb onto the ridge is fairly gradual over 10km and then from there undulating and mostly downhill. If you go straight to Moonlight Tops, you get a bigger day of walking done first, leaving your shortest distance day (Pororari Hut to the carpark) last. There is also the possibility to stay at Ces Clark hut on day one to either break the walk up or, if the track became impassible.
If you started in Punakaiki, the track is steeper in sections and the gradual uphill is a lot longer. For this post, I will reference starting from Blackball and going to Punakaiki. Please take note, elevation gain is approximate.
Day 1- Smoke-Ho carpark to Moonlight Tops
1210m gain(approx.) | 20km | 6-8 hours
The Smoke-Ho carpark is located on the Northwest outskirts of Blackball on Croesus Track Road or Blackball Road. It does have two names and luckily comes up in Google! Once you’re out of town, the road becomes gravel, winding, and steep in places, so allow a bit of extra time — and drive carefully, especially in wet weather.
At the carpark, you’ll find a long-drop toilet, a few signs, and most likely, a cloud of sandflies ready to greet you. Don’t forget your insect repellent — you’ll want it before adjusting gear or using the facilities.
The track begins gently and soon takes you over a small swing bridge, surrounded by the soothing sounds of rushing water and lush Podocarp and Beech forest. It’s a beautiful start — calm, cool, and deeply peaceful.
The climb is gradual but steady as you ascend through forest and into subalpine scrub and tussock country. The trail gradually zigzags up the ridge that separates the Blackball Creek and Roaring Meg catchments, continuing for about an hour before reaching the turn-off to the Battery Track. Continue on the track through the scrub to Ces Clark Hut.
This is the most rugged section of the Paparoa Track. You gain just under 800 meters over 10.3 km into the journey. Uphill, but not super steep. Many people don’t stop at Ces Clark for the night but instead continue onto Moonllight Tops Hut. However, this is a great stop over if you’re walking to break up the day or want an easier 4 day hike. On a clear day, you’ll be able to see Lake Brunner, The Main Divide and over to Aoraki/Mt Cook.
Ces Clark Hut
The Ces Clark Hut is a 16-bunk hut with running water, a fire, gas cooking facilities and mattresses. It can be booked online and is the first hut to stay in if you are extending your trip to 3 nights and 4 days. This hut can also be accessed via the more challenging route up Mt Watson to Croesus Knob, Tiny Tramper has an excellent post about it here or via the Croesus Track from Barrytown . Either of these alternative ways would mean you need to backtrack to the hut and is advised for experienced hikers only.
On from Ces Clark Hut, continue another 9.7km to Moonlight Tops Hut. This part of the track goes through alpine scrub and tussock following the impressive ridgeline skirting over the Moonlight Creek Catchments. The path is well formed, shingle and nothing too complicated to navigate. If you’re lucky for clear weather you’ll be able to see over to the Grey River, Tasman Sea and surrounding mountain layers.
You can do a side trip to Croesus Knob. It is about half an hour from the Ces Clark Hut and approximately a 1 hour and 15 minute return trip from the main track of the Paparoa. This knob gets you higher with even better views of Aoraki/Mt Cook and the Tasman Sea (on a clear day).
Moonlight Tops Hut
This beautiful red hut is perched in alpine scrub with panoramic views — taking in the Punakaiki River headwaters, the dramatic escarpment, Pike Stream, and the heart of Paparoa National Park. This is a 20-bunk hut with two bunk rooms and outdoor long drops not too far from the hut.
Day 2- Moonlight Tops to Pororari Hut
500m gain (approx.) | 19.1km | 5-7 hours
The route begins with a scenic walk along the side of Mount Anderson, leading into a stretch of goblin forest and the impressive escarpment of the Paparoa Ranges. From here, you’ll enjoy views out over limestone cliffs, dense native forest, and dramatic West Coast terrain.
About halfway through the day’s walk, you’ll reach a small emergency shelter situated on the ridge before descending from the escarpment into lush Podocarp forest. It’s a great spot for a snack break.
Not far from the shelter is a small lookout and the junction with the Pike29 Memorial Track — a new route that leads to the Pike River Mine site, created to honour the 29 men who lost their lives in the 2010 mining tragedy. It’s a powerful reminder of the track’s purpose and the meaning behind its creation.
From the lookout, the trail begins a mostly gradual descent along the ridge above Tindale Creek, surrounded by thick, green bush. Along the way, you’ll cross several bridges and small waterfalls, with some beautiful native forest sections and impressive birdlife — including the unmistakable shriek of a kākā overhead. There are a few longer switchbacks coming down. They aren’t particularly steep but steeper than other parts of the track. The final stretch weaves through forest giving very few clues as to how close you are to the hut but eventually the bush opens to it’s reveal.
Pororari Hut
The Pororari Hut is the same layout as the Moonlight Tops Hut but painted green. It is perched up high so you can still get the impressive views of the mountain nearby and out to the ocean. It is also a 20-bunk hut.
Day 3- Pororari Hut to Pororari River Carpark
238 m gain (approx.) | 19.1km | 5-7 hours
The final section of the Paparoa Great Walk descends into the upper Pororari River valley, following the river through lush forest of tall ferns, vibrant moss and dramatic limestone terrain. In some places, the trail traces the route of an old pack track built around 1912–1914, originally intended to support a settlement in the valley.
As the track continues, it sidles above a striking gorge, weaving through beech forest and stands of northern rātā. From the Pororari Hut to the carpark is a gradual descent making for easy walking.
Closer to the end, you’ll pass a junction with the Cave Creek Memorial Track / Inland Pack Track and after that, another junction where the Paparoa splits. It is well marked and shows where hikers are to follow the trail to the Pororari River car park and bikers follow to the Waikori Road Car park.
Know before you go
Be sure to keep checking the DOC website for track updates.
The Paparoa Great Walk has been affected in the past by treefall, slips and high winds. Extra care is needed between Pororari Hut and the Pororari River carpark. In extreme weather there can be landslides and flooding. There isn’t really anyone telling you what to do, whether to continue on or not so it’s important to make well informed decisions. If in doubt, wait it out and stay at the hut. Other hikers will understand if you need to stay an extra night.
Guided hikes
There are a number of outfits that offer guided hikes. They usually do their tracks for 3 days/4 nights. Some of the places offer fresh meals (carried by the guide) each night, bag transfer or lightweight bags and you’ll be in the company of experienced knowledgeable guides.
How to book
Bookings need to be made through the Department of Conservation website. Bookings are open for the next season usually around May each year. With increased popularity, tracks do tend to sell quickly. However, you can snag cancellations. If you’re flexible, go during the shoulder season (April/May) or if you’re well-equipped and experienced, you can go during the winter months.
Where to stay
There are a fews places to stay in Punakaiki if you’re looking to start there or dropping a car at that end.
If you’re using a shuttle service, many go from Greymouth which has a few more places to stay and a lot of options for eating. There isn’t too much for choice in Blackball.
Hut etiquette and Leave No Trace
It is important to remember you are sharing accommodation with others. Keep your cooking area tidy. Use what you need then leave it ready for someone else. Take ALL your garbage with you and clean up the hut before you leave. This includes wiping counters and sweeping.
You are also sharing a track with other walkers and bikers. If you need to stop pick a spot where you can get off the track in case people need to pass. If you need an emergency bathroom break, go as far off the trail as you can- safely.
Remember to smile and say hi to others.
Is the Paparora Track hard?
Overall, I would consider the elevation gain easy to moderate as it is spread out over long distances. They are big walking days though so you want to make sure you do have a good base line of fitness. I found my feet were pretty tired and uncomfortable in my boots after day 2. Since the track isn’t technical and is well formed, like most of the Great Walks, I would consider wearing trail shoes.
One of the biggest challenges on the Paparoa Great Walk is navigating the weather conditions. The West Coast is known for it’s rainfall so making sure you have warm, waterproof gear, even in summer is a must. It is a much difference experience walking in wet windy conditions than bluebird days like most of us are used to. Staying dry and warm is key.
Although this a higher use track, be sure to carry a PLB with you and educate or refresh yourself on when to use one. Wilderlife have an excellent post about situations where you may or may not set off your PLB.
In a nutshell
Day 1
- Upill in beautiful forest to sub alpine bush over to undulating ridgeline
- Rocky/gravelly path
- Not super steep, but the most ascent for the whole trip.
Day 2
- Open tops along escarpments, into lush forest.
- Well formed path.
- Mostly downhill
Day3
- Forest walking with fern trees and green moss.
- Swing bridges.
- Gradual downhill
I highly recommend this track and would go back and do it again. This was my first New Zealand Great Walk and was a really positive experience, especially as the track was a lot more quiet than many of the other Great Walk tracks.
If you have any questions about the Paparoa Great Walk, feel free to comment or send a message on social media!
